The Rolex Explorer II, a watch synonymous with exploration and rugged durability, holds a special place in the hearts of vintage watch enthusiasts. The 1970s saw the evolution of this iconic timepiece, with the introduction of the reference 1655, followed later by the reference 16550. These models represent a significant chapter in Rolex history, showcasing the brand's commitment to innovation and its enduring appeal to adventurers and collectors alike. This article delves into the intricacies of these vintage 1970s Explorer II models, exploring their design, history, and the factors influencing their current value.
The Genesis of the Explorer II: Reference 1655 (1971-1984)
Launched in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 marked a departure from its predecessor, the Explorer I. While the Explorer I was designed for general exploration and mountaineering, the 1655 was specifically engineered for cave exploration and other low-light environments. This crucial distinction is reflected in its most striking feature: the independent 24-hour hand. This additional hand, situated on a contrasting orange 24-hour dial, allowed explorers to easily distinguish between day and night, crucial in the often disorienting conditions of caves and other dark environments.
The 1655's design was robust and functional. Its 36mm case, while smaller than many modern Rolex sports watches, was still substantial enough to withstand the rigors of exploration. The case material was typically stainless steel, although some variations exist. The iconic "Gilt" dial, with its aged, gold-toned indices and hands, is a highly sought-after feature among collectors. These dials, prone to fading and patina over time, contribute to the unique character of each individual 1655. The acrylic crystal, while susceptible to scratches, adds to the vintage charm and authenticity of the watch. The movement powering the 1655 was the caliber 1570, a robust and reliable automatic movement known for its accuracy and longevity.
The 1655's design, while practical, also possessed a certain aesthetic appeal. Its simple, uncluttered dial, combined with the contrasting orange 24-hour hand and luminous indices, provided excellent legibility in various lighting conditions. This blend of functionality and style solidified its place as a highly desirable vintage Rolex model. The watch's association with exploration and adventure further enhanced its mystique and desirability, attracting collectors who appreciate its rich history and heritage. Variations in dial color and hand styles, as well as the presence of specific features like a matte dial or a specific serial number range, contribute to the complexity and excitement of collecting this reference.
The Evolution: Reference 16550 (1984-1989)
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